How to Build a Grow Bed Cover

 

I often write about my grow beds, and how I cover them to extend my growing season, or as a way to provide shelter and shade for my plants in the hot humid and horrendous weather we often have here in Georgia. I even use them as a trellis for my runners.

On this page, I’m going to be talking about my version of a row cover that I use specifically for, and built to fit, my grow beds. I will give a description of how I built mine, so that you can build your own, if you like.

IMG_4528
DWV fitting

I choose to re-purpose whenever and wherever possible. While my system may not be very pretty, it is pretty effective. Keeping that that in mind, I built my system using PVC piping and fittings. (I was a commercial Plumber once upon a time) I made an initial structure using DWV fittings, but turns out while they are less expensive, they are not very sturdy, especially at the joints, which is where the strongest points should be. For this reason, and others, I now use Schedule 40 pipe and fittings. The fitting sockets are tighter, making the structure sturdier. As an added bonus, since the pressure fittings are deeper and tighter, I don’t need to glue my structures together,  saving money and allowing me to re-use the various parts and pieces over and over and over again. (Like a Dave Clack 5 Tune) Not using glue is especially important for the water delivery system, but that’s another subject for another day.

Materials I Used:

50 feet of 2″ Schedule 40 PVC pipe (pressure pipe and fittings)

(16) 2″ Tee’s              (2) 2″ 90 ells              (4) 2″ 45 ells,

Tools: A Hack Saw and Tape Measure

Begin By measuring and cutting:

(6) pieces of 2″ pipe 91″      (2) pieces of 2″ pipe 45″        (12) pieces of 2″ pipe 8-1/2″           (8) ‘Jam’ pieces of 2″ pipe 3″

This built me a structure nearly 4′ across and 7-1/2′ long.

If you have never cut PVC, and even if you cut it every day, cutting this stuff with a hacksaw so that it is square is something of an adventure. Thankfully, it’s pretty hard to get so far off track that the pipe doesn’t fill the fitting. (Unless you use DWV  fittings)    Seriously though, watch the line.

IMG_4357
Looking inside this Tee to see the pipe is ‘made-up’

Beginning with the (2) 90* ells, take (4) of the 8-1/2″ long pieces of pipe, inserting one into each opening of the (2) 90* ells. Using one of the 45″ long pieces as a hammer, and the dirt ground as a brace, knock ’em together. No need to Bash it, the plastic will break, but a good whack sure won’t hurt anything. Peek inside the ends of pipe to make sure the other end ‘made-up’. if not, hit it again, until the pipe is in as far as it will go.

Next, connect a Tee to each end of those pipes, using (4) total. Visualize these (2) sets of Tees running the length of the bed, connecting to its’ mirror, for approximate rotation. It makes a bit of difference at the end, when you’re trying to connect it all together.

IMG_4364To these, add (4) pieces of pipe 8-1/2″ long, and then another set of Tees (4), and the last (4) pieces of pipe 8-1/2″ long. So you should have 2 sets of what looks like an “/\” or a “V”, depending on your perspective. Face the set, so the Tee openings are looking at one another, like in a mirror.

At each of the (4) ends, connect a 45* ell, so that when looking like /\, the opening of the 45* ell faces flush with the ground. Into each end of the 45* ell, knock a 3″ jam piece, and then a Tee, facing the length, like the ones above. Into the bottom of this tee goes the last of the jam pieces and the final 4 Tees, only this time facing inward to complete the “A” frame.

IMG_4354Use the (2) 45″ long pieces as the cross bar in the letter “A”. Again, make sure to give it a good whack when driving the pieces together, and don’t be surprised if something comes loose. Just hammer it all back together, it will hold.

IMG_4375Finally, use the (4) 91″ long pieces to connect the “A” frames together. This is where it gets a little tricky, and all sorts of things tend to pop apart. An extra set of hands, of any kind, can make all the difference. But really, it isn’t that difficult for one person to assemble, using the ground as that helping hand. It takes just a few extra minutes and several more steps.

With the Top of the “A” formed, it becomes very easy to hoist the ‘canopy’ to any height. Just cut additional pieces to fit and insert at the bottom of the Tees. It also make it easier to deal with uneven terrain.

IMG_4694A recent trip to one of the bigbox home improvement stores, using nothing more than my coconut as a calculator (they always said I was coo-coo and nuts), to buy everything that you would need, it should cost between $125 and $150. (obviously prices may differ where you are)

How much could you save by re-purposing?? I had to buy a few things, but by re-purposing, I was able to cut that number in half. Not pretty, but effective and low cost.

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